Water/Methanol is a fantastic way to keep Intake Air Temps low and also boost octane without the use of race gas!!
Octane rating varies on the mixture of Methanol you run. Average octane bump on a 50/50 water/meth injection is 20-25 points. So that would make 92 octane (as high as we have here in NM) 112-117 octane essentially.
We run this with 1000+ RWHP street cars and it works great.
However that is with full engine management which of course most of us are not running on the Ski's.
So on the ski's a lighter dose of say 30/70 water/meth should net at least 15 or so octane points. So around 107 octane in our case. Should be plenty all around. We did testing with 50/50 water/methanol and the results were fantastic!
The Methanol will effectively drop the A/F ratio down about .5 to 1 point at that mixture as well as cool the intake air temp charge considerably. It also only sprays under full boost and "should" last most of the day on 1 gallon. Maybe longer but it all depends on how boost happy you are.
We are happy to provide the necessary kit components for any make jet ski. The kit will be most effective with a forced induction jet ski though.
The system works fantastic!! We did hundreds of back to back drag races, hours and hours of wake jumping and hard riding, hours of slalom riding, and never anything less then a grin on our faces! Our test ski was a Honda R-12X.
The ski pulled very hard from the bottom all the way up. We played with boost levels from 14-20 psi.
We were happiest with 18 PSI as it seemed to pull harder then 20 psi. I think that it simply is past the efficiency of the small turbo over extended periods.
Heat soak does not exist. The intake air temps are cooled by the water/meth as is the combustion charge. The intake air temps on average with this sort of system are lower then ambient.
You can go full throttle and pin it across the lake, turn around and pin it all the way back. Jump wake after wake for hours with no loss of pressure, basically ride the ski like you stole it. Again no knock sensor codes, no decreased power, just full on boogy and fun.
Top speed changed by only a couple miles an hour. I did not think it would change the top speed much though. RPM's were around 6400 and never dropped. The way your ski feels cold is pretty much how it stays.
I am posting the video attempts now on youtube. Simply search for "PreRacing"
Problem with filming from either ski is that it is very hard to hold the camera with one hand and roost across the lake. The smallest bit of chop and these ski's as you probably know are airborne. If I had a helmet cam that would have helped but I do not.
We played with several Methanol systems over the last few weeks. We finally narrowed down everything we needed with one kit custom set up for us by a major manufacturer. We then dialed it in and refined it so as to make it the most user friendly with our systems and for ease of install. The system from the manufacturer is not complete. We added some components to make install simpler and also to integrate it in a way that would make the ski like factory. Such as relay controlled power sources so your battery has no drain on it, relocated factory components, etc. The manufacturer is only a few hours away from us and our turn around rate to get people the systems will be very fast. Best of all we are preferred dealers for this manufacturer and can offer the systems to all jet ski owners for a discounted rate. So it's a win win for everyone!!
We sourced out what we were told were water resistant components, then we torture tested them for 4 straight days. We splashed the components, we submerged them briefly, we ran the system in all sorts of chop etc. Never a loss in Water/Methanol pressure, the system performed without a glitch, no electrical issues, and we have it dialed in where the transition in and out of spray is seamless. You cannot feel it engage or disengage.
The system consists of the following:
3 QT tank. We tried the 1 gallon but it is just too big for our needs.
Low level pressure sensor
Low level pressure sensor warning led's
Primary progressively controlled water/Methanol pump
Water resistant and tested electronic progressive controller- boost referenced
System activated LED
Stainless steel fluid connectors
Twin injection jets and hardware Pre-calibrated for our application
Lock out electronic solenoid to make sure there is no gravity feed into the intake
All required hoses and lines
Detailed installation instructions specific to our ski's!!!
Spraying straight water can cool the intake charge a bit but adds no octane.
Just to Re-cap some information. The reason for water/meth is to lower intake air temps and combustion temps drastically. Thus you Do Not need an afermarket intercooler!! Heat soak is major problem and performance robber on the skis. Race gas, or if forced, gimicky octane booster (which has long been known to cause engine problems by killing plugs, and even eating away at seals) may help with knocking or detonation but does nothing else.
Water/ Meth means more octane, 25 points on average. Plus super cool intake air temps, and it is Very easy to find.
Someone who says it's hard to get or carry around knows little about it. So I'll educate those who do not know.
The best method is to mix straight methanol with water. It is east to find commercially and very cheap by the 55gallon drum. However if your in a pinch just use -20 or lower windshield washer fluid. Guess what it is way easier to find at any gas station or store where cheesy octane booster is not. -20 degree washer fluid consists of 70% water and 30% methanol with a drop of food coloring. Tada now you know the trick we racers have used for years. At that ratio your adding 15-20 points of octane. Want more? Simple at just about any gas station or auto parts store pick up a couple small bottles of "heet" fuel line anti freeze. It is 100% methanol, LOL. Spike your washer fluid with it and your ratio is now 50/50.
This system is cheap, convenient, easy, and super effective.!!!